Chen Tianzhuo | SANKAUNZ

SANKUANZ

Chen was born in Beijing in 1985. He has been hailed as “one the most promising young artists in China.” He studied for his Bachelor of Fine Arts from 2007 until 2009 at prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and went to get his Masters from Chelsea College of Art in 2010.

Timeout Shanghai stated that, “Part of what makes Chen’s work interesting is his seeming obliviousness to what is and isn’t appropriate, especially in a country [China] where culture is micromanaged. There’s courage in his creation of weed and masturbation icons, his celebration of bad taste, and his disregard for copyright and religious (and other) sensitivities. “I can’t just stay in one thing,” Chen says. “I can’t just paint the same thing again and again. I’d lose my passion. I lost my passion for fashion, so I’m not gonna do it again.”

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His work has been shown internationally and more recently July 2014 in Shanghai in “Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test: Chen Tianzhuo.”

Sankuanz was founded by desinger Shanguan Zhe in 2008, who lives in Xiamen with his team. They are travelling in every corner of China, investigating and collecting the traditional textile process and clothing art, melting into modern fashion to demostrate the series of combination. He participated in the ‘Shanghai Fashion Week’, and his collection in the show made a powerful influence on fashion insider. Shangguan Zhe continues it’s simple and utility designing style on the brand “SANKUANZ”, putting emphasis on the cloth texture and wearers’ comfort. However, he undertakes design route on his another brand “Undpromotion”, enhancing the clothes’ design sense and fabric innovation, with a little exaggeration. Apart from these, Shangguan Zhe keeps trying various matching of fabrics, in which wool, cotton, linen and chiffon could go together. His fashion aesthetics is closely related to his delicate feeling for life and the immediate capture of mood, which add thick poetic feeling to his seemingly plain works.

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His latest work debuted November 6, 2014 at K11 in Hong Kong supported by Adrian Cheng, one of the “Top 20 Most Innovative Collectors in the World.” The show titled WAWADOLL IS X’MAS DATA – a solo exhibition by TIANZHUO CHEN is “Chen’s first solo exhibition in Hong Kong is also his first large-scale installation outside of a gallery” and is curated by Leap Magazine and Art Papers Editor in Chief, Robin Peckham.

Chen currently lives and works in Beijing and London.

http://www.sankuanz.com/

Erdem Moralioglu

Erdem Moralioglu was born in Montreal, Canada to a Turkish father and an English mother and grew up between Montreal and Birmingham, England.  Erdem moved to London in 2000 to study fashion at the Royal College of Art.Upon receiving his master’s degree in 2003, he proceeded to go onto closing the 2003 RCA show with his graduate collection He then moved  back to London to launch his own label in 2005, ERDEM.

Erdem Moralioglu is the multiple award winning founder of eponymous fashion label Erdem. Well known for his experimental textiles and intricate craftsmanship, Erdem has a coterie of high profile clients, such as Kate Middleton, Michelle Obama, Alexa Chung and Arizona Muse.

Fashion was an early infatuation for the designer, who admitted to having doodled fashion designs into the margins of his maths books. He joked: “I was never going to be a huge hit on the soccer field,” in an interview with Vogue. After graduating from Ryeson University, Toronto, where he enrolled in 1995, Moralioglu began his career interning at Vivienne Westwood’s London office on archive duty before receiving the Cherening Scholarship from the British Council to afford further education at the Royal College of Art. Upon graduating, Moralioglu was selected as the final collection of the RCA’s highly anticipated graduate showcase. This lead to the designer travelling to New York to intern with Diane von Furstenburg in 2004.

The following year saw the launch of Erdem, making a debut at London Fashion Week’s Fashion Fringe. This was a real turning point for Moralioglu, winning prize money at the event. The following years included a collaboration with Mackintosh, receiving the Swarovski and British Fashion Council’s fashion enterprise award, and having his spring/summer 2009-spring/summer 2010 collections supported by the BFC’s Fashion Forward fund. This recognition encouraged Claudia Schiffer and Barney’s creative director Julie Gilhart, who had recently made the New York store Erdem’s largest international stockist, to wear Erdem dresses to the Met Ball in 2006.

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2009 was pivotal for Moralioglu: the year saw collaborations with luggage brand Globe Trotter, sunglasses with Cutler and Gross, limited edition designs for Smythson as well as being nominated for both the BFC’s collection of the year award and the Swiss textile award. Further success came with his success at the Elle Fashion Awards, winning the fashion future prize. The following year, Moralioglu went on to win the inaugural British Fashion Council and Vogue designer fashion fund prize for the second time, walking away with £200,000, the largest sum on record given to a UK based designer.

Moralioglu created a capsule collection sold exclusively at Net-A-Porter in June 2011. “This collection for Net-A-Porter is exclusive, it’s playful and relaxed,” Erdem told VOGUE.COM. The offerings included a selection of floral prints on seven pieces including shirts, trousers and dresses. In 2012, the designer collaborated with Topshop on a T-shirt to celebrate the brand’s 10 year anniversary sponsoring the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme.

Not interested in following trends as such, Erdem concentrates only on making women look beautiful. “I never think about what’s sexy,” he told Australian Vogue. “I don’t agonise over whether her bum will look big in something. I focus on the silhouettes and the proportions and hope that takes care of everything.”

Jonny Johansson | ACNE – Ambition to Create Novel Expression

Jonny Johansson is the creative director and co-founder of Acne Studios, the Stockholm-based multidisciplinary fashion house. Acne Studios is a multidisciplinary luxury fashion house based in Stockholm, Sweden with own-brand retail stores in locations around the world It was founded in 1996 as part of the creative collective ACNE. The fashion house offers men’s and women’s ready-to-wear fashion, footwear, accessories and denim, as well as special artistic collaborations and one-off projects.

Johansson grew up in the north of Sweden and was originally a guitarist in several rock bands in his youth.

Johansson has stated that the early inspiration for Acne Studios came from the Warhol Factory.  Johansson is heavily influenced by art, design, literature and music and over the years he has collaborated with a diverse range of artists, photographers and designers such as Lanvin, Lord Snowdon and transsexual magazine Candy.  His characteristic style is an emphasis on tailoring and the use of eclectic materials and custom fabrics.
Acne Studios design men’s and women’s ready-to-wear fashion, footwear, accessories and denim.

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In 1996, Johansson and three colleagues founded the ACNE creative collective. ACNE stands for Ambition to Create Novel Expression, but Johansson has also expressed that he liked the idea of ‘appropriating a difficult word’ and making it cool.  In 1997, the Acne Studios fashion line was born when Johansson created 100 pairs of raw denim jeans with red stitching and gave them away to friends and family.
 The main women’s Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter collections are presented twice a year at Paris Fashion Week. The women’s Resort and Pre-Fall collections are presented in New York and men’s main collections are presented twice a year in Paris.  Acne Studios was founded in 1996 in Stockholm, Sweden as part of the creative collective ACNE that focused on graphic design, film, production and advertising.  The name ACNE stands for “Ambition to Create Novel Expressions”. In 1997, cofounder Jonny Johansson created one hundred pairs of raw denim jeans with red stitching and gave them away to friends and family. Wallpaper and Vogue Paris quickly picked up on the popularity of the jeans and Acne Studios rapidly expanded their fashion offering outside of denim.

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In 2006, Acne Studios became a standalone company and separated from Acne Film, Acne Advertising and Acne Digital, at the same time launching their ecommerce website acnestudios.com. Since launch, Acne Studios has grown into a global fashion house with retail stores around the world including Paris, London, New York,Los Angeles, Antwerp and Tokyo, offering women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections, showing at Paris Fashion Week twice a year and turning over $120 million annually in 2013.

According to the Acne Studios environmental strategy the company wants to produce wares that are high quality and that has long life. Their goal in 2012 was to increase the amount of environmentally preferable materials and adds that their goal for 2014 is that 20 percent of all fabrics used in their “never-out-of-stock” products should be made of organic cotton or some similar environmentally stable material.

 

 

Bonnie Cashin | Timelessness

Bonnie Cashin born September 28, 1908 is considered one of the most significant pioneers of designer ready-to-wear, more commonly called sportswear, in America. Among the most critically acclaimed and commercially successful designers of the 20th century, Cashin was revered for her intellectual, artistic, and independent approach to fashion. Treating clothing as collage or kinetic art, she sculpted designs from luxurious organic materials including leather and mohair, both of which she first championed as appropriate for high-end fashion, as well as tweed, cashmere, and wool jersey. She initiated the use of industrial hardware on clothing and accessories, most famously with the brass toggle that she incorporated into her handbag designs for Coach, where she became founding designer in 1962.

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Favoring timeless shapes from the history of world clothing, her staple silhouettes included ponchos, tunics, Noh coats and kimonos, all of which allowed for ease of movement and manufacture. Cashin is also credited with introducing the concept of layering to fashion.

One might say that Bonnie Cashin was born to design. Her father, Carl, was a photographer and inventor; her mother Eunice a dressmaker. Born in Fresno, California in 1908, as a young child Bonnie played with her mother’s fabric scraps and drafted clothing illustrations. Eunice fiercely encouraged her daughter’s creativity, and she would prove to be a lifelong mentor and design partner.

In 1950, Cashin received the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award and Coty Fashion Critic’s Award for her first “return collection”. Displeased, however, with her manufacturer’s control over her creativity and frustrated with designing only coats and suits, she began working with multiple manufacturers to design a range of clothing at different price points. This enabled her to create complete wardrobes for modern living. In the 1950s, her prices ranged from $14.95 for a plastic raincoat to $2,000 for a fur kimono. At the time, it was unheard of for any designer to work for a variety of firms in so many different sectors of the business.

In 1953, Cashin teamed with leather importer Philip Sills and pioneered the use of leather for high fashion. Designing for her globetrotting lifestyle, she developed “layered” outfits, inspired by traditional Chinese dress, with the objective of creating a flexible wardrobe for modern nomads, whether a day’s travel was from country to country or city to suburb.

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In 1962, with Miles and Lillian Cahn, wholesale manufacturers of men’s wallets, she launched Coach as a women’s handbag and accessory firm. Her designer cachet and her inimitable aesthetic kept her in constant demand. She designed for companies ranging including American Airlines, Samsonite, Bergdorf Goodman, White Stag, and Hermès; she was the first American designer to have a boutique in Liberty’s of London.

Without licensing her name, Cashin also designed knitwear, gloves, totes, at-home gowns and robes, raincoats, umbrellas, hats and furs. Among many other honors she received the Coty Award (the precursor to the CFDA Award) five times, entering their Hall of Fame in 1972.  Bonnie Cashin retired from design in 1985 and devoted herself to painting and philanthropy.

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She had always been known among friends and colleagues for her generosity, and had long demonstrated her commitment to nurturing a new generation of innovative thinkers. To that end, she established a scholarship fund in her mother’s memory at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and an arts-focused lecture series in her uncle’s name at California Institute of Technology. In 1981, she started the Innovative Design Fund, a New York City nonprofit created to support educational and cultural institutions that promote creative thinking in design arts and encourage dialogue with creative minds in diverse disciplines. In 1988, the Innovative Design Fund was moved to The New York Community Trust. When she died on February 3, 2000, she left her estate to charity, and her executors created the Bonnie Cashin Fund in The New York Community Trust, “to be used for grants for educational, cultural, charitable, or scientific purposes, including libraries, museums, and schools, or for the rehabilitation and training of the poor and homeless, or for advanced scientific research.”

Isabel Marant | Developed Sophistication

Isabel

Isabel Marant, Born in 1967 in Paris to a German mother and French father, Isabel starts sewing at the age of 15 reworking old army jackets and remnants into a more bohemian wardrobe.

She takes up design studies at Studio Berçot fashion school in 1985 and creates four years later a small collection of outsize jewelry bearing her own name. She launches a line of jersey and knitwear in 1990, named “Twen”.

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Isabel establishes her own brand in 1994, setting up a studio in the Marais neighborhood in Paris. Her first show is held a year later in the debris-strewn courtyard of a squat, with her friends modeling.

She opens her first store in 1998, in a former artist’s studio in the Bastille district.

Ciguë_Isabel-Marant-Bangkok_02

 

Eager to make her brand evolve, she launches the more casual and affordable “Isabel Marant Étoile” line in 1999.

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Isabel opens her first stateside boutique in 2010 in New York Soho and expands her network of boutiques abroad since. She sets up her new head office at Place des Victoires in the heart of Paris in 2012.

 

My brand developed little by little without any sophistication nor excess. My choice was to build it up step by step in order to keep complete freedom and integrity in the way I worked!  Her clothing has been described as a “combination of androgynous chic and bohemian nonchalance.” Since its inception, the brand has increased 30% in sales each year

Helmut Lang |

Helmut Lang (born March 10, 1956 in Vienna is an Austrian artist who lives and works in New York and on Long Island.

When he was five months old Lang’s parents divorced and sent him to live with his maternal grandparents in Ramsau am Dachstein in the Austrian Alps. When he was ten his father remarried and brought Lang back to Vienna to live with him and his wife. Lang moved out of his father’s house at the age of eighteen, and began to teach himself clothing design. A few years later he opened a made-to-measure shop in Vienna.  In 1984 he closed the shop and two years later showed his first runway collection in Paris at Centre Georges Pompidou.  In 1997 he moved to New York.

Lang used unconventional materials such as rubber, feathers and metallic fabrics and redefined the silhouette of the 1990s and early 2000s. He broke away from the runway show-as-spectacle in the height of the 1980s opulence and was the first to ever stream his collection online. As one of the most important designers of our times, his work left an undeniable imprint on contemporary culture and his influence continues to reverberate among the fashion community today.

Lang’s seamless relationship with art has included collaborations with artists Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois.  His recent works explore abstract sculptural forms and physical arrangements and space beyond the limitations of the human body. Lang had his first solo art exhibition ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the Kestnergesllschaft in Hanover in 2008.

Lang has published excerpts from his ongoing art projects Long Island Diaries  and The Selective Memory Series  in a number of publications, such as BUTT Magazine, Fannzine 137 , Visionaire and most recently The Travel Almanac.

In 1999, Lang sold a 51% stake in his company to the Prada Group, with Prada running distribution and manufacturing and Lang controlling design and advertising. Afterwards, Prada developed a line of Helmut Lang accessories such as shoes, belts and bags, and opened Helmut Lang stores in Hong Kong and Singapore.

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Helmut Lang is a cult figure and, despite leaving fashion in 2005, his legacy lives on. Everything he made carried his distinct fingerprint – from his jeans to his perfumes. He was hyper-attentive to detail and Viennese through and through – he was born there in 1956.

Having shown on the Paris catwalk once, Helmut Lang returned to Vienna until 1997, when he finally moved to New York. Austerity and cerebral couture have characterised his work throughout. He was one of the first designers to embrace the internet and, in 1998, broadcast his new show on it.

• Lang only decided to move into fashion after he failed to find the perfect jacket and T-shirt in the shops and was forced to make his own
• Prada bought a 49 per cent stake in the Helmut Lang business in 1999. Unhappy without 100 per cent creative control, Lang walked out five years later
• Since then the brand has carried on without him. In 2006, Prada sold it to link Theory Holdings Co, which hired design duo Michael and Nicole Colovos to explore Lang’s signature high-tech fabrics and modernist looks and colours – but, said Theory president Andrew Rosen at the time: “The door is always open for Lang if he chose to return”

In August 2008 an exhibition of his art goes on show at Kestnergesellshaft in Hannover, Germany.

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Peter Pilotto | PRINTMASTERS

Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos comprise the dynamic design team behind Pilotto’s successful namesake label. Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos are the designers behind the PETER PILOTTO label. Pilotto is half-Austrian, half-Italian and De Vos is half-Belgian, half-Peruvian. They met whilst studying at Antwerp’s prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the year 2000. The partners raised a minority-stake investment from London-based investment firm MH Luxe and Megha Mittal, chairman and managing director of German luxury brand Escada in 2015. The investment is Peter Pilotto’s first injection of external funding, previously the eight-year-old business has been self-financed and wholly owned by designers. Industry sources estimate the business turns over about $15 million to $20 million per year.

Launched in 2007, the duo’s first collection of digital printed designs proved an instant hit, winning the designers instant acclaim and securing their first buyers. The British based brand is now sold in over 49 countries and is stocked by luxury retailers such as Net a Porter , Dover Street Market , Saks Fifth Avenue and Liberty.

Initially founded by Pilotto, De Vos joined the label in its fledging years. After earning start-up support and studio space from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise in London, Peter Pilotto was scouted for the Vauxhall Fashion Scout showcase, receiving much needed exposure. Now operating from their own studio in East London, the duo, who first met whilst studying at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, hold a number of industry accolades and have been awarded NewGen sponsorship by the British Fashion Council as well being named as winners of the Swarovski Emerging Talent award in 2010 and winners of the Fashion Forward prize in 2011 and most recently were awarded the BFC/VOGUE fashion fund.

Pilotto and DeVos have undertaken a number of collaborations with brands such as Target, Kipling, Lisa Marie Fernandez and most recently with Nicholas Kirkwood on a range of printed shoes since their AW2012 collection. In 2012, the duo were also invited to be guest designers at the prestigious Pitti W showcase in Florence.

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Both Pilotto and DeVos hold dual nationalities, being Austrain/Italian and Belgian/Peruvian respectively.

One of the ideas, Pilotto and De Vos say, was a certain seasonless quality – hence the mash-up of spring and winter clothes into a single collection. “Seasons… they don’t feel as relevant any more,” they commented over summer, their 2015 Resort collection already clustered around them as proof of that. And, of course, it sells globally – to hemispheres where summer and winter are diametrically opposed. Yet Pilotto and De Vos take it in their stride, and simply push themselves to make collections that will appeal across the board. “PETER PILOTTO” London Fashion Week Fall Winter 2014 2015 by Fashion Channel


Peter Pilotto’s vision of womenswear embraces both new and classic perspectives on elegance. Otherworldly prints combine with soft sculptural shapes to form the handwriting of the design duo, something which evolves and is explored each season as opposed to being reactionary.
Pilotto is focused toward textiles and print whereas De Vos concentrates more on silhouette and drape. However, the duo work beyond their individual perimeters to create something new, their process being very organic and beyond an integration of the two fields.

http://www.peterpilotto.com/

 

Excerpts taken from:

BOF London| Independent| Wikipedia