ReFined Culture is having an OPEN ENROLLMENT!!!

 

ReFined Culture is having open enrollment for all children from ages 5 -12 yrs old!

At the Pittsburgh Center for Arts. For the next few weekends!!

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So if you think your little one has what it takes to become a model/actor. Please email me jayleelemon@gmail.com.

All Print and Acting Classes will be held at The Pittsburgh Filmmaker’s. If you think your little one has a gift for the arts Contact us!

 

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Remember, Runway classes are held at the Pittsburgh Center for Arts on Sundays from 1-4 pm

Don’t wait until the last minute to get your small star on the path to success!!!

C0ntact us @ http://www.ReFined-Culture.com register online under book Online /Private Consultation or email jayleelemon@gmail.com

 

 

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Bonnie Cashin | Timelessness

Bonnie Cashin born September 28, 1908 is considered one of the most significant pioneers of designer ready-to-wear, more commonly called sportswear, in America. Among the most critically acclaimed and commercially successful designers of the 20th century, Cashin was revered for her intellectual, artistic, and independent approach to fashion. Treating clothing as collage or kinetic art, she sculpted designs from luxurious organic materials including leather and mohair, both of which she first championed as appropriate for high-end fashion, as well as tweed, cashmere, and wool jersey. She initiated the use of industrial hardware on clothing and accessories, most famously with the brass toggle that she incorporated into her handbag designs for Coach, where she became founding designer in 1962.

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Favoring timeless shapes from the history of world clothing, her staple silhouettes included ponchos, tunics, Noh coats and kimonos, all of which allowed for ease of movement and manufacture. Cashin is also credited with introducing the concept of layering to fashion.

One might say that Bonnie Cashin was born to design. Her father, Carl, was a photographer and inventor; her mother Eunice a dressmaker. Born in Fresno, California in 1908, as a young child Bonnie played with her mother’s fabric scraps and drafted clothing illustrations. Eunice fiercely encouraged her daughter’s creativity, and she would prove to be a lifelong mentor and design partner.

In 1950, Cashin received the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award and Coty Fashion Critic’s Award for her first “return collection”. Displeased, however, with her manufacturer’s control over her creativity and frustrated with designing only coats and suits, she began working with multiple manufacturers to design a range of clothing at different price points. This enabled her to create complete wardrobes for modern living. In the 1950s, her prices ranged from $14.95 for a plastic raincoat to $2,000 for a fur kimono. At the time, it was unheard of for any designer to work for a variety of firms in so many different sectors of the business.

In 1953, Cashin teamed with leather importer Philip Sills and pioneered the use of leather for high fashion. Designing for her globetrotting lifestyle, she developed “layered” outfits, inspired by traditional Chinese dress, with the objective of creating a flexible wardrobe for modern nomads, whether a day’s travel was from country to country or city to suburb.

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In 1962, with Miles and Lillian Cahn, wholesale manufacturers of men’s wallets, she launched Coach as a women’s handbag and accessory firm. Her designer cachet and her inimitable aesthetic kept her in constant demand. She designed for companies ranging including American Airlines, Samsonite, Bergdorf Goodman, White Stag, and Hermès; she was the first American designer to have a boutique in Liberty’s of London.

Without licensing her name, Cashin also designed knitwear, gloves, totes, at-home gowns and robes, raincoats, umbrellas, hats and furs. Among many other honors she received the Coty Award (the precursor to the CFDA Award) five times, entering their Hall of Fame in 1972.  Bonnie Cashin retired from design in 1985 and devoted herself to painting and philanthropy.

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She had always been known among friends and colleagues for her generosity, and had long demonstrated her commitment to nurturing a new generation of innovative thinkers. To that end, she established a scholarship fund in her mother’s memory at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and an arts-focused lecture series in her uncle’s name at California Institute of Technology. In 1981, she started the Innovative Design Fund, a New York City nonprofit created to support educational and cultural institutions that promote creative thinking in design arts and encourage dialogue with creative minds in diverse disciplines. In 1988, the Innovative Design Fund was moved to The New York Community Trust. When she died on February 3, 2000, she left her estate to charity, and her executors created the Bonnie Cashin Fund in The New York Community Trust, “to be used for grants for educational, cultural, charitable, or scientific purposes, including libraries, museums, and schools, or for the rehabilitation and training of the poor and homeless, or for advanced scientific research.”

Isabel Marant | Developed Sophistication

Isabel

Isabel Marant, Born in 1967 in Paris to a German mother and French father, Isabel starts sewing at the age of 15 reworking old army jackets and remnants into a more bohemian wardrobe.

She takes up design studies at Studio Berçot fashion school in 1985 and creates four years later a small collection of outsize jewelry bearing her own name. She launches a line of jersey and knitwear in 1990, named “Twen”.

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Isabel establishes her own brand in 1994, setting up a studio in the Marais neighborhood in Paris. Her first show is held a year later in the debris-strewn courtyard of a squat, with her friends modeling.

She opens her first store in 1998, in a former artist’s studio in the Bastille district.

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Eager to make her brand evolve, she launches the more casual and affordable “Isabel Marant Étoile” line in 1999.

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Isabel opens her first stateside boutique in 2010 in New York Soho and expands her network of boutiques abroad since. She sets up her new head office at Place des Victoires in the heart of Paris in 2012.

 

My brand developed little by little without any sophistication nor excess. My choice was to build it up step by step in order to keep complete freedom and integrity in the way I worked!  Her clothing has been described as a “combination of androgynous chic and bohemian nonchalance.” Since its inception, the brand has increased 30% in sales each year

Helmut Lang |

Helmut Lang (born March 10, 1956 in Vienna is an Austrian artist who lives and works in New York and on Long Island.

When he was five months old Lang’s parents divorced and sent him to live with his maternal grandparents in Ramsau am Dachstein in the Austrian Alps. When he was ten his father remarried and brought Lang back to Vienna to live with him and his wife. Lang moved out of his father’s house at the age of eighteen, and began to teach himself clothing design. A few years later he opened a made-to-measure shop in Vienna.  In 1984 he closed the shop and two years later showed his first runway collection in Paris at Centre Georges Pompidou.  In 1997 he moved to New York.

Lang used unconventional materials such as rubber, feathers and metallic fabrics and redefined the silhouette of the 1990s and early 2000s. He broke away from the runway show-as-spectacle in the height of the 1980s opulence and was the first to ever stream his collection online. As one of the most important designers of our times, his work left an undeniable imprint on contemporary culture and his influence continues to reverberate among the fashion community today.

Lang’s seamless relationship with art has included collaborations with artists Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois.  His recent works explore abstract sculptural forms and physical arrangements and space beyond the limitations of the human body. Lang had his first solo art exhibition ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the Kestnergesllschaft in Hanover in 2008.

Lang has published excerpts from his ongoing art projects Long Island Diaries  and The Selective Memory Series  in a number of publications, such as BUTT Magazine, Fannzine 137 , Visionaire and most recently The Travel Almanac.

In 1999, Lang sold a 51% stake in his company to the Prada Group, with Prada running distribution and manufacturing and Lang controlling design and advertising. Afterwards, Prada developed a line of Helmut Lang accessories such as shoes, belts and bags, and opened Helmut Lang stores in Hong Kong and Singapore.

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Helmut Lang is a cult figure and, despite leaving fashion in 2005, his legacy lives on. Everything he made carried his distinct fingerprint – from his jeans to his perfumes. He was hyper-attentive to detail and Viennese through and through – he was born there in 1956.

Having shown on the Paris catwalk once, Helmut Lang returned to Vienna until 1997, when he finally moved to New York. Austerity and cerebral couture have characterised his work throughout. He was one of the first designers to embrace the internet and, in 1998, broadcast his new show on it.

• Lang only decided to move into fashion after he failed to find the perfect jacket and T-shirt in the shops and was forced to make his own
• Prada bought a 49 per cent stake in the Helmut Lang business in 1999. Unhappy without 100 per cent creative control, Lang walked out five years later
• Since then the brand has carried on without him. In 2006, Prada sold it to link Theory Holdings Co, which hired design duo Michael and Nicole Colovos to explore Lang’s signature high-tech fabrics and modernist looks and colours – but, said Theory president Andrew Rosen at the time: “The door is always open for Lang if he chose to return”

In August 2008 an exhibition of his art goes on show at Kestnergesellshaft in Hannover, Germany.

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BALLY | Building Brands Breaking the Mold

Carl Franz Bally

Born October 24, 1821, founded the Bally Shoe company in 1851.

Carl Franz Bally was the 11th of 14 children of Peter Bally (1783–1849) and Anna Maria Herzog. His grandfather, Franz Ulrich Bohli (1748–1810) immigrated as a young man from Vorarlberg in west part of Austriato Schönenwerd in the Canton of Solothurn in Switzerland, working as a mason for a manufacturer of silk ribbons. Later, he established his own silk ribbon manufacture in that town, relying mostly on work outsourced to local weavers. His sons Peter and Niklaus continued and enlarged the firm producing also suspenders and elastic fabrics and building an extensive second facility in Säckingen, (Germany). Carl Franz, one of the ten sons of Peter, entered the business at age 17 concentrating on the newest products. During a business trip to Paris he visited a shoe manufacturing plant and began to think about producing shoes, founding his own small facility in 1851. After initial difficulties the business began to flourish and in the early 1870s he established sales organizations in Buenos Aires (Argentina), Montevideo, (Uruguay) and Paris, (France).

By 1880 Bally had transformed Schönenwerd from a sleepy farm village to an industrial center offering employment to hundreds of workers from the town and surrounding towns in what developed into one of the world’s leading shoe manufacturing enterprises. Leather goods are the heart and have lead BALLY’s Company.

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Carl Franz was a progressive liberal, pushing forward many new ideas in the town, now taken for granted. He and his wife opened a special education school for girls, a kindergarten, an old-age home and a public swimming facility at the bordering Aare river. He built homes for workers and converted a flood region of the Aare in town into a luscious, publicly accessible park. He fought battles to break the long established bond between school education and religion (Schönenwerd is the location of a small monastery originally built around 600 AD) and supported the establishment of improved schooling facilities for grade schools and a regional middle school. To fill the need for workers he opened small manufacturing facilities in several towns in the surrounding region. He also served as a lawmaker in various local and federal positions. Carl Franz and his wife Cecile Rychner (1823–1893) had two sons, Eduard and Arthur, who continued their father’s business under the name C. F. Bally Söhne. Around the turn of the century, the firm employed some 3200 workers and produced over two million pairs of shoes a year. Carl Franz Bally died in Basel in 1899.

The Bally company was founded  in the basement of their family home in Schönenwerd in the Canton of Solothurn, Switzerland and created through the passion and vision of pioneer Carl Franz Bally. His original family business was the manufacture of elastic ribbon but a journey to Paris and a gift of love forever changed Bally’s destiny.

During a business trip to Paris in 1849, Carl Franz wanted to buy his wife some lace-up booties – the popular shoe of the day. Unable to recall her exact size, he decided to buy twelve pairs in a range of sizes, knowing that one would certainly fit. Upon visiting the Parisian factory where the booties were made, he noticed that each shoe featured buttons with elastic closures similar to the kind his family produced in Switzerland. Inspired by the possibility of creating more jobs and improving the lives of local residents, he decided to expand his business into shoe production. Together with his brother Fritz, Carl Franz employed designers to assist and together, they began producing shoes made entirely by hand in the cellar of his Schönenwerd home.

The Bally Company was established in Schönenwerd in 1851 and three years later, the first factory located in the village centre was built. In 1854, Fritz Bally retired. By the 1870s, Bally was recognised as a footwear industry leader. The company’s name changed to CF Bally, and then to CF Bally & Sons when the brand’s founding pioneer handed the company reins to his sons in 1892. Carl Franz died in 1899 but undeniably passed on his pioneering spirit to his sons.

Bally grew internationally and opened stores in Geneva and Montevideo (Uruguay) in 1870, followed by Buenos Aires (1873), Paris (1879) and London (1882). In the 1880s, Bally was also one of the very first European luxury goods brands to open in post-reform and opening China. By now the brand had also extended its offering to include clothing, handbags and leather goods for both men and women (1976), and in 1990 would become truly global, opening in Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, Brazil, Lebanon and Turkey.

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Bally is currently under the leadership of CEO Frédéric de Narp (November,2013), with Pablo Coppola as Design Director (February, 2014) and parent company JAB Holdings at the helm. Anne-Marie Gaultier has also joined the brand as Vice President of Global Marketing & Communications. She started in April 2014.

BALLY companies continue to strive for what it was originally known for when first started in the basement of C.F. Bally’s home in 1851, high quality and luxury. More than 200 Bally stores around the world, as well as the opportunity to purchase Bally products on-line, gives consumers the products and the quality that C.F. Bally envisioned.

 

Some photo are Copyright © 2013 infinitas. s

RALPH LAUREN | Tyed and True…

Ralph Lauren (born Ralph Lifshitz; (pronounced [ˈlɔːən])  in the Bronx, New York City,October 14, 1939) is an American fashion designer, philanthropist, and business executive, best known for the Ralph Lauren Corporation clothing company, a global multi-billion-dollar enterprise. He has also become well known for his collection of rare automobiles, some of which have been displayed in museum exhibits. On September 29, 2015, it was announced that Mr. Lauren would be stepping down as C.E.O. of the company that he founded, but intended to remain active at the company in the new roles of executive chairman and chief creative officer.

Born in the Bronx, New York City, to Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants, Fraydl (née Kotlar) and Frank Lifshitz, a house painter,] from Pinsk, Belarus.

Lauren attended day school followed by MTA (now known as the Marsha Stern Talmudical Academy), before eventually graduating from DeWitt Clinton High School in 1957. He has said he had had heroes such as John F. Kennedy and James Stewart, hoping to acquire a “movie star” type of personality. In MTA Lauren was known by his classmates for selling ties to his fellow students. In a later interview about his early ambitions he referred to his Clinton yearbook, in which it stated under his picture that he wanted to be a millionaire. There has been a lot of debate over the correct pronunciation of the designers name, however his niece Jenny Lauren clarifies this issue on her website. She states that Lauren is pronounced as the girls first name [laur-un] and not the same as Italian actress Sophia Loren [lo-wren].

He went to Baruch College where he studied business, although he dropped out after two years.  From 1962 to 1964 he served in the United States Army and left to work briefly for Brooks Brothers as a sales assistant before leaving to become a salesman for a tie company. In 1966, when he was 26, he was inspired to design a wide, European-style necktie he had seen Douglas Fairbanks Jr wearing, but the idea was rejected by the company he worked for as not being commercially viable. He left to establish his own company working out of a drawer in the Empire State Building, taking rags and turning them into ties. He sold the ties to small shops in New York, with a major turning point when he was approached by Neiman Marcus, who bought 1,200.

In 1967, with the financial backing of Manhattan clothing manufacturer Norman Hilton, Lauren opened a necktie store where he also sold ties of his own design, under the label “Polo.” He later received the rights to use the trademark Polo from Brooks Brothers; however, Brooks Brothers managed to retain its rights to the iconic “original polo button-down collar” shirt (still produced today), in spite of Lauren’s Polo trademark. In 1971, he expanded his line and opened a Polo boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.

 

The Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store occupying the Rhinelander Mansion on Madison Avenue in New York City

In 1970, Ralph Lauren won the COTY Award for his menswear line. Around that same time he released a line of women’s suits that were tailored in a classic men’s style. This was the first time the Polo emblem was seen, displayed on the cuff of the suit. Ralph Lauren released Polo’s famous short sleeve pique shirt with the Polo logo in 1972 and unveiled his first Ralph Lauren collection for women.[13] It came out in 24 colors and soon became a classic. He also gained recognition for his design after he was contracted to provide clothing styles for the movie The Great Gatsby as well as for Diane Keaton’s title character in the 1977 film, Annie Hall.

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In 1984, he transformed the Rhinelander Mansion, former home of the photographer Edgar de Evia and Robert Denning, into the flagship store for Polo Ralph Lauren. This same year de Evia photographed the cover feature story for House & Garden on the Lauren home Round Hill in Jamaica, which had formerly been the home of Babe and Bill Paley. On June 11, 1997, Ralph Lauren Corporation became a public company, traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol RL.
 

By 2007 Ralph Lauren had over 35 boutiques in the United States; 23 locations carried the Ralph Lauren Purple Label, including Atlanta, Beverly Hills, Boston, Charlotte, Washington DC,Chicago, Costa Mesa, Dallas, Denver, Honolulu, Houston, Las Vegas, Manhasset, New York, Palm Beach, Palo Alto, Philadelphia, Phoenix, San Diego, Short Hills, Montreal and Troy. The Financial Times reported in January 2010 that the firm had revenues of $5 billion for fiscal year 2009.

On September 29, 2015, Ralph Lauren announced that he would be stepping down as Chief Executive, to be replaced by Stefan Larsson, the President of Gap’s Old Navy chain.

 

LOEWE | Enrique Loewe Roessberg – Jonathan Anderson | Golden Needle

 

 

LOEWE began as a cooperative of leather artisans in the center of Madrid in 1846. German entrepreneur Enrique Loewe Roessberg consolidated the workshop under his name in 1872, creating one of the world’s original luxury houses. As LOEWE evolved and expanded over the next century, a commitment to modernity emerged as a defining characteristic: In the 1950s and 60s, LOEWE’s offices and stores in Spain became a beacon of progressive international design thanks to the radical architecture and interiors of Javier Carvajal. In the 70s and 80s, LOEWE’s capabilities with leather ensured rapid internationalization, resulting in store openings in Tokyo, Hong Kong and London.

In 1970, artist Vicente Vela created the Anagram, the abstract symbol consisting of four intertwined Ls that has been stamped ever since on LOEWE’s products as an emblem of material and technical excellence. LOEWE’s first ready-to-wear collection was introduced in 1965—bringing fashion into the core of the brand—followed by the debut of the iconic, unlined Amazona bag in 1975. The house was acquired by luxury group LVMH in 1996.

In 1846 Madrid was preparing for a pair of royal weddings, those of Her Majesty Isabel II of Bourbon to the Duke of Cadiz and that of the Princess Maria Luisa Fernanda to the Duke of Montpensier. Due to an increased demand for their services, a collection of Spanish craftsmen founded a leather goods workshop in the commercial district of Madrid on Lobo Street. In 1872, when a German craftsman named Enrique Roessberg Loewe who specialised in leatherwork arrived in Madrid, he decided to join forces with the existing leather workshop owners and establish a brand. The collaboration allowed Enrique Loewe to bring his German sense of precision and craftsman’s technique and mix it with the Spanish workshop’s sensuality and unequalled leather expertise.

During the reign of Alfonso XIII, Loewe was appointed purveyor to the royal household and so began a long association with the bourgeoisie. Twenty years later the name of E.Loewe was seen all over the streets of Madrid, with large posters staking his claim to certain areas. This resulted in his name also becoming known amongst the general public. By 1910, Loewe had acquired a reputation as the most luxurious leather goods supplier in the city and began its expansion across the Spanish territory. When Enrique Loewe Knappe took over the company in 1934, there followed a succession of store openings and expansions and by the end of the 1960s Loewe was beginning to expand internationally.

Renowned for their made-to-order service, Loewe customers are able to order clothes and accessories tailor made to their requirements either in store or from the Loewe website. Pieces are handmade by a team of artisans whose craft has been passed down since 1846. Still a unique family dynasty, Enrique Loewe Lynch is part of the business and is the family’s representative on the board of directors.


Craftsmanship, progress and unequalled expertise with leather, Loewe’s founding pillars are reconfigured with a timely awareness evident in desirable and functional products across multiple categories, including ready-to-wear, accessories, home and lifestyle. Spain is where Loewe was born and remains the brand’s home. While its current landscape contains elements from places near and far, the Spanish legacy is expressed in modern ways, while the heart of Loewe still beats in Madrid, where all of its world-renowned leather goods continue to be manufactured. By the 1970s Loewe broadened its business to include a women’s RTW collection and a fragrance line. Nearing the end of the decade the brand opened its first store in Japan, marking the beginning of a strong development into the Asian market. This expansion was bolstered by a collaboration with LVMH by the end of the 1980s.

 

In October 2013, Jonathan Anderson was appointed Creative Director.

With new creative director Jonathan Anderson at the helm, Loewe is looking to the future as the label continues to grow. As Loewe approaches its 170th anniversary as one of the world’s most luxurious fashion houses, the iconic Spanish brand has traditions of the past staying strong, delivering heritage and innovation for the next generation.

 

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Under Anderson, Loewe has started a new chapter, presenting itself to the world more multi-faceted and dynamic than ever. Anderson’s first ready-to-wear collections for the Loewe were presented in 2014 at Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.

Streamlined, ultrasoft renditions of the famous Amazona and Flamenco are among the most coveted bags available at leading fashion stores today, including the Puzzle bag, a completely new bag design by Jonathan Anderson, his debut for the house.  The design adds a novel character to Loewe’s range of iconic accessories, pairing modern functionality and aesthetics with ingenious construction and incredible softness.

 

 

http://www.loewe.com

 

 

Some excerpts taken from online posts and article submissions.